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Cheap Dog Walking Service

Walking around in big cities, you can see ads on every corner that say: Chicago dog walkers, dog walker nyc and much more. That’s happen because people work all day along and they don’t have time to spend time with they pet friends and to fulfill their needs. At this post we present you really cheap dog walking service. It’s senior Labrador Retriever who take his 3 little friends, 2 haskies and one cocker spaniel. They are so adorable all together…

The Real Life Watchdog

When you think about watchdog the top dog you think about mostly is dog breed German Sheppard, Rottweiler, Mastif, Doberman or many others. Once you see Dog Pics bellow you will get totally different impression and different meaning for “Watchdog” because watchdog don’t need to be dog that will watch you and your family. Watch dog can be dog with Rolex collar aroun d his neck. Bellow is Border terrier Smike who earned “watchdog” nickname because his new gear.

Dogs owner Karen Denney from the Crawford, near St. Helens (UK) specially commissioned the collar because she wanted special and unique dog canine accessory. The unique dog collar have built-in Rolex Watch and this is gift for her best friend’s seventh birthday. Thanks god that Rolex watch is not unique and that’s only replica.

We bet this collar will look awesome on World’s Most Expensive Dog

Car Travel with Dogs

Whether you’re planning to bring your dog up to the cottage, taking him/her for his/her annual check-up at the vet, or simply heading to the off-leash dog park, there is a good chance that you’ll need a car to get there. For some owners, a car trip with their dog is no big deal; it’s a simple as popping their pooch in the back seat and hitting the road. For others, even a fifteen minute drive can be a total disaster. Whichever might be the case for you and your dog, it’s important to be aware of all the potential hazards that exist on the road, and to be prepared. Not all dogs will be perfect passengers, but by taking a few simple steps and precautions, you can ensure that your next road trip goes as smoothly as possible.

Even before you and your pet board the vehicle, you can make your dog’s trip better by taking steps to avoid motion sickness. It is estimated that one in every six dogs experiences motion sickness, and you don’t want your dog to experience it and vomit all over your back seat. A good idea is to avoid feeding your dog for three to four hours prior to departure. If you already know that your dog is prone to getting carsick, you can even ask your veterinarian about dosing your pet with Gravol or Dramamine. Some dogs might even need a mild (or moderate) strength sedative to stay quiet and prevent car sickness. If you are unsure as to whether or not your dog is the kind that gets sick, try a test drive. Start with just a five minute drive around the block and then increase the length of time gradually to see what your pet can tolerate.

On longer trips, planning frequent stops for bathroom breaks is also a must. You should check in advance for pet friendly rest stops, as many do not allow dogs at all. You can both use these breaks to stretch your legs and also to re-hydrate. Pack along drinking water and a bowl. If your pet is one that can handle food without getting car sick, you can also pack some of his own food along for snacks.

Once you are done with all the necessary planning, it’s time to buckle in. Just as you would do for a small child, it is important to secure your pet as best you can while they are in the car. It is always safest for your pet to travel in the back seat. Airbags are not designed with dogs in mind, and can be extremely dangerous for pets of any size so front seat travel is a no-no. Also, it is extremely unsafe for you as a driver to be distracted by a dog in the passenger seat. For smaller dogs (or bigger cars), using a travel crate is a good way to ensure your pet’s safety while on the road. Especially for dogs who are crate-trained already, this kind of travel can be very comfortable and make your pet feel secure. The crate should be secured to the seat with a seatbelt. Other dogs do well with special harnesses designed specifically for this purpose. Just like a seatbelt, these harnesses keep your dog safely on its seat and prevent your dog from flying forward through the windshield in case of an accident. This sort of restraint is best tolerated by dogs who trained with the harness from the time they were puppies. For larger dogs, or those that become extremely anxious during restraint, they can be seated (though a secure crate is safer) in the back of your vehicle. However, to ensure your dog’s safety and your own, a dog guard should be installed to separate the back of the car from the driver’s area.

Going for a car ride with your pet doesn’t have to be a stressful experience. For many dogs a car ride can be a great time. With just a little preparation and a few simple precautions, you can feel confident in your dog’s safety and comfort while in the car. Though it may seem like a bit of work at first, with time, car safety for your pet will be as second nature to you as buckling up your own seat belt.

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6 Steps To Find The Perfect Dog Sitter

Choosing a pet sitter is a big decision.  You will be leaving your beloved dog in the hands of someone else and trusting them to visit your home, feed your dog, play with him, and know what to do if there should be an emergency.  How do you find the perfect pet sitter?

 

There are some basic approaches to finding a good pet sitter:

 

1.  Ask around.  If you have friends or family who have used a pet sitter in the past, find out who they used and if they would recommend them. The advantage of using someone that is known to your friends and family is that this person comes with a built-in recommendation.

 

2.  Check with your vet.  Your vet sees a wide assortment of pets in your community.  They also know many pet professionals.  They may be able to recommend a good pet sitter.  The same is true of your pet groomer and other people you see regularly for your dog’s care.

 

3.  Check bulletin boards.  Many pet sitters advertise on the bulletin boards at vet offices, pet groomers’ shops, dog supply stores and other pet-related businesses.  This is a good way to make a connection with a pet sitter but it does not provide you with a recommendation about the pet sitter’s abilities.

 

4.  Check your phone book for local pet sitters.

 

5.  Check online for local pet sitters.  Superpages.com often lists pet sitters (and other pet professionals) in local areas.

 

6.  You can check with Professional United Pet Sitters , the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters , and Pet Sitters International  to find professional pet sitters in your area.  Simply type in your area code or other information about your locality and they should be able to offer suggestions.

 

Once you have found some likely pet sitting candidates there are some things you should ask them before you hire them.  You need to discuss the following subjects with your potential pet sitters:

 

– Is the pet sitter insured?

 

– Can they provide references?

 

– You should check with other local pet professional businesses in your area to find out about the pet sitters reputation.

 

– You should ask to see the contract for pet sitting services.

 

– Make sure that you understand the costs and what services are included.

 

– Ask the pet sitter about their pet education and if they have and certification or accreditation.

 

– Do they know first aid for pets?

 

– Do they belong to any professional organizations such as a professional pet sitting group or other pet care group?

 

– Is there a backup plan in case the pet sitter has a personal emergency?  Who will take care of your dog?

 

– Is the pet sitter properly licensed?

 

You should also ask questions about how the pet sitter interacts with your particular dog.  Have they cared for a Greater Shantung Westheimer before?  (Insert your breed.) Do they know how to care for them?  How many times per day will they be coming to your house?  Will they be staying at your house?  And so on.  Make sure you cover all of the details of their care of your dog, especially if your dog has any special needs.

 

Whew!  It’s a lot of information to cover but you will be gone and you will be asking someone else to take care of your dog — you can’t be too careful.  You should interview a pet sitter just as you would interview a baby sitter or anyone applying for an important job.

 

It’s best if you start trying to find a pet sitter far in advance.  Not only will it take you some time to choose a pet sitter but good pet sitters can be hard to find.  Good pet sitters can book up early.

 

If you follow these suggestions you should be able to find a good pet sitter in your area.  Make sure you have several phone numbers so you can reach them at various times.  No matter how much confidence you have in them you will probably want to check in frequently.

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How to Choose a Groomer for Your Dog

Depending on the breed of dog you have, a groomer may be very useful in keeping the hair coat neat and tidy. Ask your veterinarian, family, and friends for names of groomers that they recommend.
Questions to ask when choosing a groomer…

Staff and training:

  • What breeds do they own?
  • Are their pets’ hair coats kept neat and clean?
  • Did the groomer go to school to learn grooming or did they learn it ‘on the job?’
  • How long have they been grooming dogs?
  • What breeds are they proficient at grooming?
  • Do they provide different styles of cuts for different breeds?
  • Will they give a ‘show cut’ versus a ‘puppy cut?’

Hours, fees, and payment:

  • What are the hours?
  • How are dogs admitted and how do you know when to pick them up?
  • How long does it take to get an appointment?
  • What is the range of fees for your breed of dog?
  • What does that fee include?
  • What methods of payment are accepted?
  • When is payment due?
  • Are credit cards accepted?

Services:

  • What type of shampoos and conditioners are used?
  • If your veterinarian recommends a certain shampoo do you need to supply it?
  • Is a hand-held or cage drier used?
  • Is the ear hair plucked from those breeds with hair in the ear canals?
  • Do they accept dogs that need to be sedated for grooming?
  • Who sedates and monitors your dog?
  • Will the groomer trim nails between regular grooming appointments?

Facilities:

  • Is the area kept clean, neat, and orderly?
  • Are there unpleasant odors?
  • Where are the dogs kept?
  • How are clippers, scissors, etc., cleaned between use?

Your relationship with your dog’s groomer is similar to the one with your own hairdresser or barber. They should listen to what you want and you should listen to their advice before making your decision.

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Tracking Collar Systems

Many hunters invest in tracking collar systems as a way to protect their valuable hunting dogs. In order to be able to enjoy the hunt, a tracking collar puts the hunter’s mind at easy by knowing where their dog is at all times. Hunting involves a lot of risk for hunting dogs and hunters alike. In order to guarantee the safety of their dog, hunters rely on a these collars.

Every tracking collar system consists of two components – the transmitter and the receiver. The dog wears the transmitter which is attached to the collar. The transmitter is lightweight and has no effect on your dog. An antenna is usually attached to the transmitter in order for it to send signals to the receiver. The receiver is generally a handheld remote which receives the signal from the transmitter in order to find the location of your dog.

There are two types of tracking collars – radio frequency nd GPS. A radio frequency collar sends signals to the receiver through radio frequencies. The receiver will usually need to be adjusted since it can tune into multiple channels and receive other signals. The downside to a radio frequency collar is that they can become weaker when obstacles, such as trees, buildings and other areas, get in the way of the signal. A radio frequency collar will usually have lights on the receiver that will let you know when you are close to your dog and which way to go to find it. A GPS tracking collar, on the other hand, sends signals via satellite transmissions. A GPS collar tells exactly how far away your dog is. Many owners find the exact distance listed by GPS tracking collars very convenient.

The range, or amount of distance the collar can be detected over, is usually stated on the tracking collar system box. The distance the range refers to is only over a flat, unobstructed terrain. Manufacturers only quote the range under ideal circumstances with a transmitter that has been fully charged. One should always test the range of their tracking collar instead of relying on what the box might say.

When choosing tracking collar systems, it is always a good idea to make sure the receiver does not make any noises. Noises can easily scare away your prey or confuse your dog. It is also recommended to try out the tracking system before you take your dog hunting. Hunters should be familiar with all aspects of the system in order to ensure they are able to find their dog and kill on the day of the hunt. Hunters are suggested to try out the transmitter by placing it in a location that can easily be tracked while finding said location with the receiver before ever using the system with your dog.

A dog is as important to a hunter as a rifle and ammo which is why they go to great lengths in order to ensure their dog

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The Right Collar for Your Dog

Every dog should wear a collar with an ID tag. But with the hundreds of collars available today, what collar is right for your dog?

Collar Size

First, your dog’s collar should be size appropriate. It may seem cute to put a great big studded collar on your little Yorkie, but it is generally unhealthy to require a small pooch to carry around a heavy, cumbersome collar all day. This can lead to back and neck problems, and a very unhappy pup.

When sizing your pooch for a collar, measure while your dog is standing. Measure the circumference of the dog’s neck where a collar would naturally lie. Insert 2 fingers between the dog’s neck and the measuring tape. This is the length of collar your pup needs. Remember that most collars are adjustable, so when in doubt, go a size up. Puppies grow faster than seems imaginable. Check your puppy’s collar every day to make sure it has not grown too tight.

Nylon Collars

Nylon collars are washable and durable. They are available in tons of colors and styles. They usually feature a D ring and a quick release buckle. Nylon collars are perfect for dogs who like to get dirty, or dogs who spend a lot of time in the water. They are also one of the most affordable collar options, which is helpful if you cant seem to keep your dog from eating his collar.

Leather Collars

Leather collars are probably the most durable and classic style of collar. They are very strong and great for big, strong dogs. If you have an especially big, especially strong dog, try a braided leather collar; they are one of the strongest varieties of collar available.

Rolled leather collars are made especially for long-haired breeds. This kind of collar settles into long hair and prevents the matting that can result from a flat collar. Rolled collars are not preferable for short-haired, or flat coated breeds, as they usually leave a line on your dog’s neck.

Choke Collars

Choke collars are for training purposes only. They should not be your dog’s everyday collar, he should never be left unattended in a choke collar, and he should never be put on a tie-out in a choke collar. This kind of collar can be hugely beneficial to stop pulling when you walk and for other corrective measures, but they should be used with care. To size your dog for a choke collar, measure his neck as described above, and add two and a half to three inches.

When you put a choke collar on your dog, it should form a P when you look at it head on. If it looks like a 9 instead, it is on backwards and will not release properly. This can lead to choking and tracheal damage.

Another form of temporary training collar is the pronged collar. These collars have blunt metal prongs that face in towards the dog’s neck. These are used to prevent pulling in large, strong dogs. Pronged collars should be used carefully. If you are considering purchasing a pronged collar for your dog, talk to a dog trainer or your vet about the proper way to use it so you do not hurt your dog.

Harnesses

Harnesses are perfect for dogs who pull, small dogs, puppies, and dogs with delicate necks. Instead of pulling back on the dog’s neck, the pull is distributed across the dog’s chest, which is much safer. Many vets recommend that puppy owners use only harnesses until their munchkins get older.

Head Collars

Halter-style head collars like the Gentle Leader and the Halti are engineered to place your dog’s attention on you. Rather than pulling back on the neck of the dog like most collars, which causes them to instinctively pull back, these collars pull the dog’s entire head in your direction with even the slightest correction. Instead of a power struggle, your dog’s attention is placed on you.

Although this style of harness goes across your dog’s nose, head collars are not muzzles, and do not serve the purpose of muzzles in any way. In a head collar, your dog will still be able to eat, drink, pant, bark, and bite.

Don’t be disturbed if your dog looks miserable in a head collar. Many dogs will struggle dramatically to remove it, but in time they get used to it and begin to recognize the head collar as an indication that it is time for a fun walk.

Reflective and Light-up Collars

If you often walk your dog in the dark, or like to take your dog camping, reflective collars and light up collars are extremely helpful. Some collars have strips of reflective tape sewn on, and others have LED lights installed. This is a fantastic safety feature, which will also help protect you when you are walking at night with your dog.

Basically, as long as your dog has a durable, safe, and properly sized collar, he has what he needs. The rest is a matter of style, taste, and preference.

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What Bowl is Right for My Dog

Between types of food, additional supplements, and kinds of feeders, it seems there are nearly as many options for feeding your dog as there are breeds out there.

Each dog varies from the next in many ways–they have different tastes in food, different nutritional needs, and different physical issues. It is recommended that you feed your dog a high-quality dog food and discuss specific formulas of food and supplements with your vet. But as far as feeders, there is one widely accepted way to feed that literally stands above the others: Elevated feeders, also known as doggie diners, or feeding stations.

There are, of course, plenty of other acceptable options, but they each come with their pitfalls. Stainless steel dog bowls are extremely durable and inexpensive. These bowls are not prone to scratches and are not likely to get chewed up or destroyed by even the most over-zealous pup. Stainless bowls, however, are the most obnoxious noise-wise on hardwood or tile floors. If you have a dog who likes to paw at his bowl, it’s likely that one of these bowls will drive you to distraction eventually. Stainless bowls are also not available in many styles or designs, so you don’t get to let your personality and décor shine through.

Ceramic and stoneware bowls are probably the most creative option. There are hundreds of designs of stoneware bowls, mostly hand painted and therefore unique. There is a stoneware or ceramic bowl out there to suit any interior design. They are also often dishwasher safe, and either way, easy to clean. The problem with ceramic and stoneware bowls, though, is that they are prone to developing tiny, hard-to-see cracks. These cracks can harbor harmful bacteria that can potentially make your dog sick. Ceramic and stoneware bowls are not inherently unsafe, but they should be checked regularly for cracks and chips.

Plastic bowls are easy to clean and offer just as many fun and aesthetically pleasing designs. They are also quite handy for the clumsy owner or playful dog since they are difficult to break, even when dropped from human heights. Some dogs, however, can develop allergies to plastic, resulting in irritated skin on the face and in the mouth. Softer plastic bowls are also attractive as chew toys to some dogs, and usually scratch easily. Bite marks and scratches are apt to fill with harmful bacteria.

Automatic feeders and waterers are handy and great for the dog owner who isn’t home as much as one would like. Little to nothing is ever said against automatic waterers; automatic feeders, on the other hand, can be trouble. Free feeding is unhealthy for most dogs. There is no way to regulate how much your dog eats when you’re not around, this can result in weight problems. Many vets warn against automatic feeders and suggest you only feed your dog a specific amount every day, in person.

The choice recommended by many vets is an elevated feeder. When a dog eats from a bowl directly on the floor, he must bend his head down to reach. This can be uncomfortable for dogs with arthritis or back and neck problems. An elevated feeder allows the dog’s spine to stay more aligned, relieving pain and stiffness. Older dogs are prone to eat less as it is, and they may eat less still if it is painful to do so. An elevated feeder will make your older dog more comfortable, and thus, more likely to eat a sufficient amount. Starting your dog young, with a proper diet from an elevated feeder can help avoid this kind of back and neck problem all together.

When your dog doesn’t have to reach down to the floor to eat and drink, swallowing requires less effort. It’s purely logical that if food and water don’t have to travel up the esophagus, against gravity, the process is easier and more comfortable. Elevated feeders help avoid problems like megaesophagus(decreased or absent movement of the esophagus), bloat (swelling and sometimes twisting of the dog’s stomach), and gas. They help the dog chew more and gulp less which leads to a healthier eating experience.

When dogs drink from regular bowls, they often lift their head to help swallow, leading to a slobbery, wet mess around the bowls. An elevated feeder solves this problem completely. It also discourages your fun-loving pooch from playing in his water bowl, further avoiding messes for you to clean up later.

Most elevated feeders sit on four legs, rather than flush against the floor. When bowls sit directly on the floor, moisture and dog food crumbs collect under the bowl and create a prime environment for mold, mildew, and all manner of crawly critters. This can lead to not only bad smells and bugs in your home, but also allergies and other health issues for your dog.

Elevated feeders often come with, or fit a certain brand of stainless steel or ceramic bowls. With all the available designs of elevated feeders, from simple and sleek to elegant and extravagant, you can use a sturdy, durable, stainless steel bowl and still let your style shine through. Since elevated feeders don’t allow your pup to play with his bowls, this prevents the cracks and chips in ceramic bowls that can make your dog sick, so you can pick a beautiful bowl that’s just right for you.

Doggy diners may cost a little more than a couple of plastic bowls on the floor, but think of it as a one-time expense that not only ensures that your dog will have a happier, healthier life, but with most feeding stations, one that will probably last for the life of your dog.

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