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The Real Life Dog whisperer

You don’t need expensive training dog schools, you just need to have one dog whisperer…Enjoy in beautiful wallpaper…

Wolf And Tiger Best Friends

In the wild, a chance meeting between a wolf and a tiger would not be this adorable. But, seeing as they were friends since being two weeks old, these litters of wolves and tigers share a unique bond.Separated from their mothers to insure their survival, they are beginning their journey as animal ambassadors at The Institute of Greatly Endangered and Rare Species – conveniently abbreviated to ‘Tigers’.The young timber wolves and Bengal tigers seem unaware that they are supposed to be sworn enemies as they play for the cameras in their South Carolina home.

Now aged three months, and sharing the same bottles of milk formula, the 25lb wolf cubs are twice the weight of their tiger bedfellows.The founder of Tigers, Doc Bhagavan, said: ‘At the moment the tigers will have a size and weight disadvantage to their canine friends.So that means that the wolves are a bit pushy with their tiger pals in their shared environment.

However, as I am sure you will have guessed, even though the wolves are bigger at three months, after another five months it will be the tigers who will be able to push the wolves around.’After one year the tiger cubs will be expected to weigh around 250lb compared to the year-old wolves at 180lb.Mr Bhagavan said: ‘Even though they will have spent eight months together, after that time they will have to be separated. The size difference and species difference will become apparent.’



Socializing A New Dog In Your Home

You’ve been waiting for months.  You’ve done all your homework.  You’ve chosen the perfect new puppy for your home.  You have a collar, a leash, a bag of food that the puppy has been eating.  You’ve even taken a day off from work so you can go get the puppy and bring him home.  He has a bed and toys waiting for him at home.  You’ve thought of everything, right?  Right up until the moment one of your kids asks, “Won’t Rover just love the new puppy?”  Oh, no.  What about the dog you already have?  What about that sweet, beloved old guy at home who has been the center of the family’s attention for years?  How is he going to feel about sharing his home with a new puppy?  Did you forget to ask him about bringing a new puppy home?  How is he going to react?  It looks like you’re well on your way to having to learn how to socialize your new puppy and your old dog.  But, don’t worry too much.  It’s not that hard and you can all get through the process with a little effort.

 

The most important thing is to ensure the safety of all concerned – you, your family the puppy and the older dog.  Make certain that the puppy will be safe and that the older dog cannot harm him.  It’s a good idea to place the new puppy (or new dog) in a pet carrier or crate that will keep him from coming into physical contact with the older dog at first.  This way they can still see, smell and hear each other without anyone getting hurt.  They can get used to each other in a safe situation.  If you’re dealing with a larger puppy or an adult dog you may need to leash both animals.  It helps to have an assistant on hand (a family member is fine).

 

Remember that rewards go a long way toward helping to ease these situations.  You will basically want to reward your older dog when he shows acceptance of the new puppy (or dog).  After the two dogs have calmed down a little give each of them a little reward, such as a bite of kibble or some other favorite treat.  Give the puppy and the older dog lots of praise and affection for not barking or showing aggression toward each other.  (It will be tempting to show more affection and praise to the puppy but you should be careful not to overlook the older dog.  You don’t want to do things that will make the older dog jealous.)  Keep in mind that you are trying to show your older and the puppy that you accept the other dog’s presence as part of the family and that you expect them to accept the other dog, too.  You will probably need to repeat this process several times until both dogs become accustomed to each other and any hostility has subsided.  It’s typical for the older dog to display more aggression than the puppy.  The puppy may be very submissive.  This is normal.  Some puppies may be frisky and something of a nuisance to older dogs.  Older dogs will put up with this behavior to varying degrees.  Some older dogs are more tolerant than others but most will respond and set limits at some point.

 

The next step in this process is to allow the animals a closer inspection of each other.  For this step you need an assistant to help control one of the animals.  Your assistant should leash the older dog and hold him firmly on a very short leash.  Make sure your assistant has control of the dog.  You will then open the pet carrier or crate and bring out the new puppy or dog.  Or, both animals may be on leashes.  At this point you will bring the two dogs close together.  The dogs will most likely move toward each other to sniff and meet.  They will explore the other animal so you should be sure your assistant is holding the dog tightly.  You should be careful not to let the new pet panic or escape your hold.  You can gradually bring the two dogs closer together and allow them to calmly meet.  One or both dogs may growl in warning.  Watch the dogs carefully and be prepared to separate them if necessary.  You can try again later if need be.  Dogs in a home typically establish a pecking order – they will establish who is boss.  Your older dog has seniority and will probably quickly let the puppy or other dog know that he is in charge in the home.  The other dog will probably accept a subordinate role for the time being.  Dogs are good at working at most squabbles on their own without human interference.

 

The last thing to keep in mind is that not everyone gets along.  Not with people and not with dogs.  There will be days when your dogs may not get along.  They may have disagreements about a toy or about a place to sleep or about food.  These are usually quickly resolved and your dogs will be friends again.  In other cases there are some dogs that don’t like each other and may never like each other.  However, with patience and some good management on your part, you can avoid fights and keep your house peaceful most of the time.  You may have to call a time-out sometimes, or send the dogs to a separate room to cool off, but things will calm down.

 

If you’re thinking of getting a new puppy or adult dog you can help prepare your older dog for the coming change and make things easier for him.  Start socializing your older dog more.  Take him to a dog park or a pet superstore that allows dogs to visit.  Let him begin to meet some new dogs so it’s easier on him when he meets a new dog in his home.  You may even be able to arrange for him to meet your new puppy on neutral ground, such as at a dog park, where your older dog feels less territorial.  You may even wish to consider having a dog party at your home where several people bring their dogs to your house.  (Though this may be stressful for some dogs, other dogs may enjoy having dog guests in their home.  It helps to know your dog well and how he may react.)  All of these things will help your dog adjust when he meets your new puppy.

 

Do take your older dog’s feeling into consideration when you think about bringing a new puppy or adult dog into your home.  Many dogs welcome a puppy or new dog into the household, but for dogs who have been “only dogs” their entire lives it can be somewhat threatening to have a new dog in the household.  They feel threatened both by having their living space invaded and by feeling jealous of your time and attention and love.  Everything they know is being challenged and turned upside down.  Give them time to adjust to a new puppy or dog and help them adapt by introducing the new animal slowly.  Make sure you continue to show your older dog plenty of love and affection and it will help him accept the newcomer.

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Calming Signals from Dogs

Calming signals are a natural way for your dog to communicate. They are used among dogs as well as most other animal species as a conflict solving method when faced with unpleasant things such as aggression, stress and fear, or to prevent these things from happening. Dogs are conflict solvers as this is necessary for survival. Calming signals are used to establish trust and security, but most of all, as a way to communicate and be understood. They are meant to keep order and to maintain a healthy social structure. Dogs of all breeds, shapes, sizes and ages use the signals all the time and in a variety of situations. We must learn to use this non-discriminative language in order to communicate clearly with our dogs. Using the signals will help decrease stress among our dogs and will help us see them in a new light for who they truly are; our most beloved friends.

Many signals can be seen clearly when you are looking. Others are very subtle, small and varied. Recognizing some signals comes with experience; sometimes, fast glimpses of a series of signals can be observed but if you are not paying close attention, they might not be noticed. Many misunderstandings or problems between owners and dogs happen because of language problems.

Some dogs with behavior problems can be helped tremendously by re-acclimatizing with their lost language. There is great confusion when dogs use the signals and we, the humans, don’t recognize them and even punish our dogs for using them because we think they are being bad, stubborn, or inattentive. By using calming signals with our dogs and recognizing the signs, we can prevent stressful situations, fear and aggression in our dogs.

Through the use of calming signals, your dog will become more social. He will grow more secure and therefore become a happier dog. He will cope better with a variety of situations and he will have a better ability to solve conflicts, a very natural instinct in dogs.

Calming signals will help you train better. When your dog is tired, stressed or unable to focus, he will let you know. In addition, the use of calming signals will help you to be able to calm down a dog who is becoming nervous or stressed. Because of your use of the signals you may be able to show other insecure or fearful dogs that you can be trusted. You can become a better friend to your dog by understanding him more. Calming signals are wonderful to use in behavior therapy to help dogs overcome problems. As a matter of fact, it is critical that they are used if long term success is to be obtained in behavior therapy.

Dogs may lose their language through our own fault. When no one in their surroundings uses the signals, they lose the ability to use them. We teach dogs all kinds of commands which in essence, become their new language. Unknowingly, we punish dogs for using calming signals. When you are training, for example, your dog might look away at some point, seemingly ignoring you, when in fact, he may be trying to calm you and to calm himself, as you may be making too many demands on him ( ie. training for too long) . If your dog yawns and turns away from you when you are tense and giving a command with a loud, angry tone, such as “HEEL! for god’s sake, HEEL!”, he is giving you calming signals, yet you probably punish him for being stubborn and ignoring you.

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Biting: Causes, Prevention, and Control

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), a federal agency which monitors and controls human diseases, estimates over 4.5 million people are bitten by dogs in the United States every year. One in five of those bitten requires medical attention.

In addition to physical injuries, people, especially children, can be emotionally scarred as well. It is sad, indeed, when a person who has suffered a dog bite can no longer feel comfortable around animals, and may in fact, be terrified of them. Such people lose a wonderful aspect of their lives and a chance to have a meaningful human-animal bond.

Reduce the risk of your dog biting

There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk if you:

  • Spay or neuter your dog. This may reduce your dog’s desire to roam and fight with other dogs. Neutered dogs are 2.5 times less likely to bite than intact dogs.
  • Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types of people and situations so that he or she is not nervous or frightened under normal social circumstances.
  • Train your dog. Participating in puppy socialization and dog training classes is an excellent way to help you and your dog learn good obedience skills. Training your dog is a family matter, and every member of your household should be involved and use the same training techniques.
  • Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Avoid playing aggressive games with your dog such as wrestling, tug-of-war, or ‘siccing’ your dog on another person. Do not allow your puppy to bite or chew on your hands. Set appropriate limits for your dog’s behavior. Do not wait for an unacceptable behavior to become a bad habit, or believe your dog will ‘grow out of it.’ If your dog exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person, particularly toward children, seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Your community animal care and control agency may also offer helpful services. Dangerous behavior toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.
  • Be a responsible dog owner. Obtain a license for your dog as required by law, and provide regular veterinary care, including rabies vaccinations. For everyone’s safety, do not allow your dog to roam. Make your dog a member of your family. Dogs who spend a great deal of time alone in the backyard or tied out on a chain are more likely to become dangerous. Dogs who are well-socialized and supervised rarely bite.
  • Err on the safe side. If you do not know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or delivery or service personnel, keep him in another room. Work with professionals to help your dog become accustomed to these and other situations. Until you are confident of his behavior, however, avoid stressful settings

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Teaching Your Dog to Play Frisbee

Teaching your dog to play Frisbee is fun and rewarding. It is a great way to spend quality time with your dog and you both get plenty of fresh air and exercise. Some dogs take to Frisbee instantly, and others take some coaxing and time to get the hang of it; but almost any dog can learn to love it!

First, as with any change in your dog’s exercise routine, you should take your dog to the vet and make sure he’s in a healthy enough condition for Frisbee. If you have a puppy, discuss with your vet how old your puppy should be before he can start jumping for the Frisbee. If puppies take part in extreme jumping before their growth plates have closed, it can lead to lifelong problems. Generally around 14 months is a good age.

Once your vet has given you the go-ahead to start training, it is time to find a Frisbee and introduce it to your dog. Choose a Frisbee that is soft and flexible. You don’t want a Frisbee that is too hard because it would be more likely to hurt your dog when he catches it. One way to ensure positive associations with the Frisbee is using it as a food dish for a while. Chances are, once your dog has had a few meals out of the Frisbee, he will be completely comfortable around it.

Next, encourage your puppy to play with you with the Frisbee. Sit on the floor by your dog and tease him with it (not maliciously, of course). If your dog is interested in playing with it, let him and praise him enthusiastically. If he isn’t interested, use your super excited voice and play around with him until you get him in a playful mood. Once you’ve got your dog interested in the Frisbee, roll it on its side across the room. If he chases it, praise him enthusiastically. If he brings it back to you, cook him a steak, but the retrieve is not important at this point in training, so don’t worry if he doesn’t. Keep rolling the Frisbee for your dog as long as he stays interested.

The next step is taking your dog outside, tossing the Frisbee short distances and encouraging him like crazy when he goes after it. Never throw the Frisbee at your dog. In the beginning, stick to low, flat, short trajectories.

Once your dog is going after the Frisbee every time, start encouraging him to bring it back. You can help this along with a long (30 ft or so) training lead. As soon as he gets back to you with the Frisbee, trade him a treat and tons of praise for the Frisbee, then throw it again. You shouldn’t have any problem getting the Frisbee from your dog if you give him a treat, but if he’s being difficult, take it as a sign that you need to work on his “drop it” command. Read our Commands Every Dog Should Know article on more information on helpful commands to teach your dog.

Your dog will naturally begin to jump for the Frisbee, but it’s a good idea to take some time to teach him how to land properly. Your dog should land on all fours so the force of impact is spread across four legs. If your dog is landing on just his back two legs, you can teach him to jump through a hula hoop. This will help him get his hind end up in the air when he jumps so he will land properly.

Don’t leave the Frisbee out when you’re not playing with your dog. It will be much more enticing to him if he only sees it when you’re playing. Also, never let your dog chew on the Frisbee. Nicks and breaks will cause it to fly improperly, and could hurt your dog when he catches it.

Don’t be discouraged if your dog doesn’t start making breathtaking, spectacular catches right away. Some dogs are instantly amazing at Frisbee, others take months and months to really get it right. Just be patient and keep it fun for both of you.

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Remote Training Collars

Remote training collars are an option when you are trying to teach your dogs how to behave properly. They can also help to eliminate unwanted actions that your dog may perform, such as barking excessively or chewing on furniture. With this device, you are able to redirect their actions from a distance. There are many different training products out there, but remote collars have been known to be successful at getting the right types of behavior from your pet.

These collars work by delivering a small shock to your pet when they are misbehaving or not following your commands. This jolt does nothing to harm the puppy, unlike other shock collars. There are three components of the training collar system. First is the remote that you will use to deliver the shock when your dog has behaved incorrectly. Next is a collar that is worn around the animal’s neck like any other collar. The last aspect of remote training collars are the probes located around the collar which send the shock to the dog when activated. It is important that the collar fit snugly in order for it to work correctly when you activate it using the remote.

Remote collars are a safe and humane way to train your pet even when you are not standing beside him. This can be helpful because you are still able to redirect your dog’s behavior even when you are not around. Punishing a dog minutes after he has done something wrong is not effective, because they cannot make the correlation between their behavior and the punishment after it’s already happened. The shock they receive will merely distract them from what they are doing without causing harm. If they tend to become annoyed and distracted by the shock often, the idea is that they will eventually stop doing the unwanted behavior.

There are safety features provided with most remote dog collars. One such aspect is an automatic shut off feature. This will stop the shock over six to ten seconds, even if the dog has not stopped barking. This is beneficial if there is a legitimate reason for the barking or other action the dog is exhibiting. They may be simply ignoring the stimulation because of the situation. The remote can provide continuous or momentary shocks, depending on what is needed to get your dog to understand.

As you can see, remote training collars can help you correct your dog’s behaviors, and get them to understand what actions you would like to see from them. They can help if other methods of training have failed. They are not dangerous to the animals, as the shock they deliver is light, similar to the static shock you would receive if you touched something metal.

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The Importance of Socializing Your Dog

Once your dog has learned how to handle being in a public environment and how to behave, he can then be introduced slowly to other dogs and allowed to make other canine friends by allowing them to smell and greet each other (this is best done with both dogs on leashes so that you can quickly pull them back if one or the other becomes aggressive or displays dominant behavior. You may know the behavior and temperament of your own dog, but you might not necessarily know that of the other dog).

 

Be sure that your dog and any other that he comes into contact with are current on all vaccines, including Rabies, Bordetella (for kennel cough. note –(Keep in mind that, like the flu virus for humans, the vaccine is designed to prevent against the most common strain, of which there many.) and all DHLPP shots. This will minimize his and other dogs health risks if one or both becomes sick. Remember that, just like people, a dog’s personality comes in all varieties, some dogs may never be able to get along together because and they just aren’t compatible with others. If the first few tries are unsuccessful, take heart, it doesn’t mean the end of the road. Keep trying until a match is found that gets along well together.

 

Not giving a dog the opportunity to play and interact with other dogs is like having a child and not allowing them to play with other children. This can create behavior problems later in life as they have never been given the opportunity to develop social skills. There are some dogs that just can’t figure out how to socialize and play with others and in this case, they may do best by themselves. You can assist this type of dog and encourage him to play and interact by getting involved in the play yourself. Silly though it may sound, I’ve gotten it to work. One way to assist the shy or fearful dog is through daycare, again, this is not foolproof and some dogs just cannot seem to develop social skills, but at least you would have attempted and hopefully brought him out of his shell. Ideally to be able to take your dog to dog parks and watch them play, socialize and make new friends of their own kind would be great.

 

They can wear each other out so that you won’t have a hyper or destructive dog on your hands when you get home or if you ever have to leave them home alone. There are young dogs of certain breeds that can mingle comfortably with plenty of others with no problem, but not all dogs are capable of such sociability. When dogs hit maturity, some are no longer comfortable mingling with unfamiliar dogs. Dogs use body language for communicating. Being taken from their mothers early, dogs are left to learn these skills from us humans, unfortunately we don’t communicate in the same ways, which leaves them to figure it out on their own, making it more difficult for them to learn. This is why we need to use caution in allowing our dogs to greet a new potential playmate or friend. The younger the dog the more friendly and pliable he is.

 

Close supervision will always be needed when he is learning to form new relationships with other dogs. A good parent would initially keep close watch on their young children as they meet new friends for the first time and observe the situation, monitoring closely for problems so that they could intervene when they sense a problem. Imagine being a mom or dad who is looking out for your kids while gradually loosening the leash of freedom. If your dog is being picked on or seems uncomfortable, you may need to come to his rescue. If he’s behaving badly toward others, you may need to remove him from the situation or use a brief “time out” if corrective action doesn’t work. When a puppy is scared to be around others, it shouldn’t be forced, however repeated attempts may bring success as we’ve learned from experience.

 

A dog that gets too excited and overwhelms others may need to be pulled aside for a brief period, in order to calm down. When playing, some dogs may appear to be fighting and it can often be difficult to interpret. Conflicting misunderstanding may lead to fights if close watch is not kept to keep both dogs in check. Some breeds tend to use growling in their play and others will full on wrestle while some just like to play chasing games and barking can also be a part of play. Crashing and running into each other is a means of play for some while other dogs don’t quite know what to make of it and may feel uncomfortable or threatened by this. Some will use greetings that others may find overwhelming or uncomfortable or even intimidating and threatening, like rushing to greet others and jumping, climbing and licking others, barking at them, or they may exhibit complete fear.

 

Mounting and other displays of dominance like holding his head above another dog’s head or biting the back of the other dog’s neck are undesirable behaviors and acts of power play and should be corrected immediately. On the flip side, some may show submissiveness in greeting such as lying down or rolling onto their back to show the other dog that they aren’t a threat. So many different temperaments in each individual dog, is why allowing our dogs to simply charge out and greet others may in fact be dangerous to one or both dogs, and why a slow cautious approach is best.

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